Hair Loss Advice

"Your Hair - YOUR Choice"

Hairpieces and Wigs - What You Need To Know

Hairpieces and wigs are often used to cover bald spots and hide thinning hair. Many people wear wigs and hairpieces daily and find them convenient. They are popular with people experiencing hair loss due to pattern baldness, cancer treatment, and alopecia areta, and are also popular as fashion accessories.

Wig is sometimes used to denote a hairpiece that covers the entire head, where hairpiece is used to describe a partial wig, which typically covers a bald or thinning spot, although often the terms are used interchangably. We use wig to refer to both in this article, and hairpiece to refer specifically to a partial wig. Toupee is another term for hairpiece.

Hairweave refers to a hairpiece which is woven into whatever natural hair remains. This can look more natural but be uncomfortable, and the wearer can sometimes lose hair from required frequent retightening as the natural hair grows. Reportedly after several months a person can begin to lose hair permanently along the weave area, and for this reason hair weaves are not very popular anymore.

It's hard to find unbiased information online about wigs because everyone seems to want to sell you one. There is A LOT of money in wigs – both in selling them and associated paraphenelia such as adhesives to attach them, not to mention the regular costs of hair grooming to match hairpieces to your remaining hair.

Be warned that many people selling wigs and hairpieces are on commission – which can lead to unethical "used car salesman" type behavior. They want to sell you no matter what! Take your time and shop around, ignoring any "one time" specials and other high pressure sales gimmicks!

Also be warned that many purveyors of wigs will NOT tell you what they are selling. They may call them by some new fangled proprietary name, but they are selling you, or at least trying as hard as they can, is a wig. Wigs and hairpieces have come a long way. They are not all the old "rug" which is slightly off-color and looks fake, although some cheap ones still are. They may be right for you – many are high quality and look great today! They are made of both natural and synthetic hair.

Two methods of attaching hair to wigs are available. First and oldest weaves root hair ends to a warp of three silk threads called a weft. Wefts are sewn to a foundation of net. Wefts are both hand and machine made. In the 19th century another method came into use. A small hook or ventilating needle, similar to hooks used with chain-stitch embroidery, knots a few hair strands at a time directly to a foundation. This new method produces lighter, natural looking wigs. This is the preferred method for high end custom wigs and those used in film. Some makers combine both techniques, using weft for the main part of the wig and ventilating hair at the edges and partings for a fine finish.

Custom wigs start by measuring the head. Natural hair arranged in flat curls on the head helps as various measurements are done. It is helpful to arrange patterns from layers of transparent adhesive tape applied over plastic wrap so the hairline is accurately mapped. The measurements are transferred to the block or wooden or cork-stuffed canvas form the same size and shape as the person's head.

Depending on the style of the wig, the foundation can be made of net or other material, varying sizes and textures of mesh used for different parts of the wig. Edges and other places are trimmed to reinforce with a narrow ribbon or galloon. Flesh colored silk or synthetic fabric applied to show through the hair at crown and partings makes the wig stable. So does small bones or elastic inserted making the wig fit tightly. Theatrical and fine custom wigs have a fine, flesh net or hair lace at front making it inconspicuous to wear. This allows hair looking like it came from the skin. These are called lace front wigs.

Natural hair, either human or animal, needs careful sorting in the direction of growth, root to root, and point to point. The scale type form of the hair cortex shaft if some hairs get turned the wrong way will ride backwards against other hairs causing tangles and matting. High quality hair can never be bleached or colored. It requires careful sorting so the direction is right.

Less expensive wigs substitute the labor intensive sorting process by processing the hair. Treated with a strong base solution it dissolves the cortex making strands smooth. Then it is bleached and dyed to the color desired. A synthetic resin finish restores the strength and luster of the. Synthetic fiber is manufactured in required colors and has no direction. Wigmakers choose the type, length and colors of hair by the design of the wig. The wigmakers blend them by pulling the hair through the upright teeth of a brush type tool called a hackle removing tangles and short and broken strands. Hair is placed on a pair of short-bristled brushes called drawing brushes with root ends extending over one edge with the second brush pressed down on top of it so a few strands are withdrawn at a time, leaving the rest undisturbed.

Weft structured wigs are sewn to the foundation by hand. It is put on the block or with mass produced wigs sewn on a prefabricated base by skilled sewing machine operators. Ventilated (hand knotted) wigs are knotted directly to the foundation. A few strands at a time the foundation is fastened to the block. The hair folded over the finger loops are pulled under the mesh. The hook moves forward to catch both sides of the loop. The ends are pulled through the loop and the knot is tightened for a single knot, or a second loop is pulled though the first before finishing for a double knot. The bulkier more secure double knot is used over the majority of the wig and the less obvious single knot at the edges and parting areas. Skilled wigmakers consider the number of strands of hair used and the direction of each knot for the most natural effect. The hair on the wig is now all the same length. It is styled into the desired form in a similar way as a regular stylist.

The person's natural hair is knotted tightly against the head and the wig is applied. Remaining extra wiglace is trimmed away. Hairpins are used to secure the lace to the hair. Skin-safe adhesives are used to adhere the wig against bald skin. This also hides any exposed lace. Finishing touches are done to the hair styling to achieve the desired effect.

As you can imagine, good wigs are expensive, especially custom made wigs. Prices can range from $100 for pre-made wigs to several thousand dollars for high quality, custom wigs. The cost of the adhesives required for daily use is also expensive.

A wig may be more expensive than a hair transplant! Why? You may need constant hair grooming and hairpiece attachment, which may only be available from the people you bought it from.

A wig or hairpiece may be a great choice for you. Shop around, ask for references, and don't put up with high pressure sales techniques! Remember they have come a long way, and many of them appear natural and look great!